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A quick announcement: Breadcrumbs Guide was featured in Annie Anywhere’s list of 15 New Travel Blogs to Follow! A big THANK YOU to Annie and her awesome blog! There are some really great new bloggers on the list and I highly recommend you check them out. I’m liking a lot of their Instagram feeds these days, and it’s always fun to see where people are traveling to!
Everyone wants to climb Huayna Picchu, the small mountain behind Machu Picchu. It’s a rite of passage for those visiting the ruins. Having to reserve your spot months in advance, waking up before dawn, and scaling the impossibly steep trail in the dark are all part of the experience, and help fuel the hype that surrounds Huayna Picchu. It’s undeniable that Huayna Picchu offers a great vantage point to see the ruins from above. But I think most of the hype is due to the incredibly treacherous climb. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing the path up Huayna Picchu. There are drop-offs, stretches of trail so narrow you need railings to hold yourself up, and even a section of ladders when steps just won’t cut it.
If you’ve been following along, you know that I’m all about the mountain views. And I knew that the view from Huayna Picchu would be great. But, I suspected I could do better.
Garren and I did NOT climb Huayna Picchu. Instead, we climbed the lesser-known Machu Picchu Mountain. Here’s why:
Months back, I had stumbled across a project called AirPano where a group of photographers travel all over the world to shoot high resolution spherical panoramas from the air. When I saw their panoramas for Machu Picchu Mountain, I was mesmerized. I couldn’t tear myself away. I became obsessed with getting myself to the top of Machu Picchu Mountain.
I highly recommend you check out their other panoramas on the AirPano website. Warning: you might get addicted and wind up buying a plane ticket. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
So you think you might want to climb one of the Machu Picchu mountains? Let’s talk logistics.
Logistics
- General: Huayna Picchu is the mist-shrouded mountain in the backdrop of every classic Machu Picchu picture. It is incredibly popular, and harder to get tickets. Machu Picchu Mountain is the bigger mountain opposite Huayna Picchu. It is easy to get tickets, and you’ll be away from the crowds.
- Difficulty: Huayna Picchu is a 1,000 ft climb while Machu Picchu mountain is about double the elevation gain. If you’ve just done the Inca Trail, both climbs will be fairly easy – Machu Picchu is at a lower elevation than most of the Inca Trail. If you’re coming from a lower altitude then Machu Picchu Mountain could be pretty exhausting, but do-able, if you take your time. Allow 2 hours to ascend Machu Picchu Mountain if you’re reasonably acclimated.
- Safety: Huayna Picchu comes with a small risk of falling to your death. Of course, if you are careful and take your time, you’ll be fine. Machu Picchu Mountain is less risky, but still has its steep sections and drop-offs.
- Tickets: For Huayna Picchu, buy tickets online (here) LONG in advance. For Machu Picchu Mountain, get tickets online or in person from Ministerio de Cultura (Av de la Cultura #238) in Cusco a few days before. Either way, your ticket also serves as your entry ticket to the main ruins at Machu Picchu.
- Wear: Athletic shoes or hiking boots. Just don’t be caught in sandals. Sunscreen and warm weather clothes are smart. Be sure to wear layers if you’ll be there early in the morning when it’s still chilly.
- Bring: Water (a must!), snacks, and a camera.
Climbing Machu Picchu Mountain
After rising early every morning on the Inca Trail, Garren and I couldn’t sleep past 7:30am so we caught an 8:30 bus up to Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes. We found the sign for Machu Picchu Mountain, and made our way up the first set of steps.
It wasn’t long before we encountered a small pack of llamas making their way down to Machu Picchu. They walked right by us on the stairs, and some of them even posed before trotting down for breakfast on the Machu Picchu terraces.
We reached the check point for the trail up to Machu Picchu Mountain and presented our tickets and signed in. I’m pretty sure the sign-in sheet is to keep track of which tourists don’t come back.
I wasn’t sure what the trail would be like, but it turned out it was very similar to the Inca trail, with old stone steps most of the way up. At only 8,000 ft above sea level, the hike was fairly easy and we stopped less frequently than we had on the Inca Trail.
It was hard not to stop though, because every time we turned around, we saw this view.
In many places, the trail dropped straight off to the base of the mountain, giving us dizzying views of Machu Picchu, getting smaller and smaller as we climbed.
There weren’t very many people on the trail with us. We saw a couple of small groups at most.
The trail wound up the mountain in switchbacks, giving us alternating views of Machu Picchu, the jungly green mountains, and the dryer mountains on the other side where the hydroelectric plant hummed away, completely hidden to most of Machu Picchu’s visitors.
It was a beautiful hike, and there was no shortage of cool things to look at. Every step was more than worth it, with gorgeous views the whole way up.
When we turned the final switchback and saw the summit ahead, it was almost too perfect a sight.
We climbed the final steps and made our way to the lookout.
Those panoramas that transfixed me months earlier hadn’t misled me. Majestic mountain giants rippled out all around me, the Urubamba River wound around the green peaks, and one of the seven wonders of the world nestled peacefully on a bright green ridge. The buzz of the crowds at Machu Picchu were nonexistent. Up at the summit it was peaceful, quiet, and beautiful. This was the best kept secret of Machu Picchu.
It’s hard to describe how Machu Picchu Mountain made me feel, but it was something like a mixture of being incredibly content and completely awe-struck. We spent about an hour up there, just soaking it all in. I could have stayed up there all day. I never wanted to forget that feeling.
Garren eventually pried me away from the summit and we made our descent back to Machu Picchu. What had taken us about an hour and a half coming up took only 45 minutes or so going down. We signed out so the rescue squads wouldn’t come looking for us, and strolled out into the splendor of Machu Picchu.
But this time it seemed different. This time it felt like we knew a secret about Machu Picchu that most people missed. We strolled along the grassy terraces and watched the other travelers taking selfies and following tour guides with giant umbrellas. We walked a little ways away from the all the mid-day commotion and wound around the back side of Machu Picchu, then turned around. It was the best view of Machu Picchu we had seen yet.
Knowing the day couldn’t get any better, and wanting to end on a high note, we committed the view to memory, then took the bus back down to Aguas Calientes.
To see more of the main ruins of Machu Picchu and the last stretch of the Inca Trail, check out my post: Inca Trail Day 4: Machu Picchu.
Ok, let’s hear it! Has anyone done BOTH Machu Picchu Mountain and Huayna Picchu? I want to hear from you!
Andrea says
Looks like an amazing hike! What great views
Sonja Riemenschneider says
It was great – you would have loved it! Such a cool place to be.
Annie says
Hey! Thanks for the mention. It was a pleasure to add your blog to my list. You deserve it! 🙂 Great work!
Sonja Riemenschneider says
Thanks! I’m pretty pumped about our gang of newbie travel bloggers!
Landon @ Uneven Sidewalks says
Looks like a great trip! We were there not too long ago. It’s really an amazing place! We didn’t get to hike the mountain because we were meeting up with friends but hopefully some day we can! Great pictures!
Sonja Riemenschneider says
I’d highly recommend it if you ever go back! We liked having two days at MP to take our time and chill there.
Zascha Friis says
Breathtaking photos!! And I loved the llama ones – they’re sooo adorable 🙂
I’m going to Machu Picchu later this year, and this blog post is so inspiring to read.
I can’t wait to experience all of these sights myself – and of course I’m looking forward to meeting the llamas. Haha 🙂
Sonja Riemenschneider says
Thank you! Yes, the llamas were hilarious and adorable. They just paraded around like they owned the place and weren’t afraid to pose for my camera! You will have a fantastic time at Machu Picchu!
Ben says
Would you recommend this hike if someone is afraid of heights?
Sonja Riemenschneider says
Yes, definitely. This hike (Machu Picchu Mountain) is less scary in terms of cliffs and drop-offs while the other one (Huayna Picchu) is terrifying whether you’re afraid of heights or not! So yes, you should have no problem on the Machu Picchu Mountain hike but stay away from Huayna Picchu!
Misty Whitehead says
Thank you thank you my dear, for this thorough post (airpano view link much apprecieated!) about Machu Picchu mountain! I’ve searched the internet for three hours trying to get an idea of which mountain to hike, HP or MPM and your post is the best one I’ve found. It has also persuaded me to hike this one 🙂
Sonja Riemenschneider says
Big smile here! Glad you found me and I could be helpful! Have an amazing time!
Ann says
We will be climbing MP on July 5th!! Love your blog!!
Thanks so much for the wonderful info & photos. Especially those Llamas. Such rascals!!
I am a bit confused as to how we will achieve the Mountain which is included in our entry ticket to MP.
We have entry time between 9 & 10 am.
Do we head to the Montana trail first at 9?
If so lets say it takes slow hikers 4 hours total, would we then hv time for actual MP site?
Also since our entry is for 9, someone told me to catch the 7am bus out of AC.
Help!! Never been & just don’t quite understand the timing. Our ticket does include MP Montana for sure.
I feel like we have Golden Tickets!!!
Sonja Riemenschneider says
Congrats, that’s exciting! The hike up Machu Picchu Mountain is less strict than Huayna Picchu in terms of when you have to get there, so as long as you enter within your entry time you should be fine. I would recommend you do that first thing, unless you happen to get there much before 9. You’ll have plenty of time to explore the main ruins when you come back down, just be sure to bring water and maybe some snacks so have energy to see Machu Picchu when you’re done. If you want to be hiking by 9 then if you catch a bus around 8 from Aguas Calientes you should have plenty of time with a little wiggle room.
Terry Carsten says
Hi. I enjoyed your description and photos of your climb at Machu Picchu. I just returned from peru where i climbed huayna Picchu and Machu on successove days. I am 73 years old and the 2 climbs in 2 days ranks as the most demanding efforts (and most satisfying) of my life. Thanks for your blog.. i use it to help describe the grandeur of that place.
Sonja Riemenschneider says
That’s incredible! I hope I’m climbing mountains like you when I’m 73!
Lori says
This was a really helpful post. Would you recommend this hike for someone who is in good shape but occasionally gets vertigo? I’m a bit nervous about the big drop offs! Thanks.
Sonja Riemenschneider says
Yes, I think the Machu Picchu Mountain hike would be good for you in that case. There are only a couple of short stretches that are a little scary with the drop off, but nothing even close to what Huayna Picchu would be like.
henry wahl says
My wife and I just hiked it today. It was spectacular! Worth every penny.
Guanpeng says
I booked a tour of 5 days going through Salkantay, Llactapata and to Machu Picchu, including Huayna. Still gathering information to make a decision whether to spend one more day in Agua Calientes in order to go to Montana Machu Picchu. This would be a 6 day super comprehensive Machu Picchu visit except that the Winay Wayna is not included. Need a little determination to make a choice >_<
Jen says
This is a great blog! Thanks for posting. I think I’ve found our option for a hike. We have a 7 year old daughter that is an avid hiker and too young (12 year min) to hike Huayna Picchu which is unfortunate because I know she’d love. However this is a great alternative especially without the crowd! Thanks!
Henrique says
Hey! Loved this post! I am going to Machu Picchu in june and bought the mountain trail because of your description.
I want to take some pictures of Machu Picchu pretty early, around 7 am.
Since i am going to the mountain at 9 pm, do you think that i have time to take those regular pictures?
And if i begin to climb the mountain around 10am,does the sun gets to hot?
When did you begin your hike, at what time did you get to the peak, and when did you came back to MP?
Thanks!
Sam says
Hey! My husband and I are going to Machu Pichhu in about 4 weeks and are trying to decide whether to hike MP mountain or not. We plan on going in the morning, first thing, but are concerned we won’t have enough time to explore the ruins afterwards. We are also considering getting a guided tour through the ruins (want to get as much out of it as we can!). Do you think it is realistic to try and do both in one day?
Sonja Riemenschneider says
Sorry I didn’t reply before your trip! I’m curious what you decided to do and how it worked out. Any tips for readers?